Thursday, June 30, 2011

How to Pick a Cologne: What Scent is Right for You? - Part 1

Walking into the cologne section of your local dispensary can be daunting for most men.  The sheer number of options available is overwhelming at times and often you'll find yourself gazing at bottles wondering why you even tried to find a new scent.  The good news is that all these scents really filter down into 6 different categories of scent.  Today I'll show you the first three scent categories that you can consider and which is best for you.


Citrus
A great summer fragrance, citrus colognes have notes of fruit, flora and sometimes wood. Citrus scents are generally lighter and can seem to lose their power quickly, but that is generally only the case with inferior products. Try to avoid lemon scents as they will smell more like wood polish than anything, lime is a better choice.
Tom Ford Private Blend 'Azure Lime' Eau de Parfum
Woody
Wood notes often have more of a "musk" scent traditionally associated with your grandpa's cologne. But you don't have to smell like an old man when wearing a woods scent, most modern, quality cologne's have updated profiles to avoid a dated scent. If you are working in a very conservative office, a woody cologne should be your choice of work-time scent.

Yves Saint Laurent 'La Nuit de L'Homme' Eau de Toilette
Fresh
Another note that is perfect for summer, fresh notes are light and often have an "ocean air" quality to them.  I'd associate it with how you would smell after a swim in a river and an afternoon sipping drinks on the porch.  I'm going to show you Acqua di Gio as a recommendation but it comes with a caveat: only choose this if you really have no confidence in your ability to find your own scent. This is a great cologne but it is incredibly popular, meaning that you will smell like many other men who wear it.  Remember, scent is the sense most closely tied to memory, and if the girl you're dating had a bad ex who wore this, it will remind her of that ex very distinctly.  If you feel confident in finding your own fresh scent, do so.
Acqua di Giò Men Eau de Toilette Spray

Tomorrow I'll go over the remaining three cologne scent types you should know. If you have a scent you're currently wearing that you love, let me know!

Thanks for reading. As always, be dapper.
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Wednesday, June 29, 2011

How to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit

The double-breasted suit is back, in a big way.  Gone are the boxy shoulders and overdone lapels that dominated the double-breasted suit back in the 80's.  Now the lines are trimmer, the lapels are thinner and all kinds of guys are wearing them (not just your stockbroker.)  Today I'll go over how you can rock a double-breasted suit with confidence without looking like a bad Gordon Gekko impersonator.

Fit Trumps All
You should be used to me stressing fit by now, but really: fit trumps all.  With a double breasted suit you're going to want to keep it short.  If you're already used to shorter jackets then you'll know what to look for, if not then you need to ignore the old "grab the bottom of the jacket rule."  I'd recommend the jacket hit an inch or two above the crotch of your pants.  Your lapels shouldn't be so wide that they're flapping in the wind.  If you like Tom Ford, you can embrace his take on lapels but I prefer something a little more toned down.  Between 2.75" to 3.5" wide is a good rule of thumb.  Lastly, the shoulder pads should be slim and nearly non-existent.

A perfectly fitted double-breasted suit | GQ.com
Keep It All Together
There is a "jigger" button inside the left side of your double-breasted jacket, please use it!  If you don't button it up the jacket will sag and look poor.  I prefer to also have all the working buttons on the outside of the jacket buttoned as well.  A spread collar shirt will a full-windsor knot is going to look fantastic with your double-breasted suit, so don't be afraid to knot up with a thick, classic tie.

David Beckham in a Double-Breasted Suit | GQ.com

Like a Boss
Even though the double-breasted suits I've shown you are updated and modern, at their core the double breasted-suit is still a power look.  If you are wearing a suit and the rest of the office is wearing chinos and a polo, reconsider rocking one in the workplace unless you're managing all those khaki-clad minions.

The "Tom Ford" Look: Wide Lapels, Bold Stripes

The double-breasted suit is a great addition to any man's wardrobe. If this is your first foray into the doubled up world, keep the suit simple with a dark color and subtle (if any) patterning.

Thanks for reading. As always, be dapper.
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Wednesday, June 22, 2011

How to Buy Jeans for the Fashionable Man

A friend of mine recently got in contact with me and presented me with a dilemma.  He's been reading the blog and has picked up on a few of the ideas I've presented here, but still has an issue with finding jeans that look good.  The biggest problem with finding great jeans is that there is such a variety out there, it's hard to sift through the mountains of denim available at nearly every retailer.  Well I think I can help with this quick guide on how to find great jeans.

It's All About Fit

The great thing about denim is that it stretches and forms to your body. Notice how when you pull on a pair of year old jeans they feel better than when you bought them? That's because the denim has had time to contour around your hips and ass to fit perfectly. However this only works if your jeans actually fit. Hence, you should be buying your jeans just slightly tight. You should still be able to button them up, but they should be snug. After you buy them, wear them relentlessly.

That said, with the countless variations of "fit" that retailers advertise it can be hard to decide which to go with. Try them all on. There's no one "right fit" because everyone has different shaped legs. However try to avoid anything with "relaxed", "baggy" or "loose" names. I tend to stick to fits that say "classic", "straight", "slim" or something along those lines. Boot cut is a source of contention for me, I think they look terrible unless you are wearing boots but there are plenty who would disagree with me.

Express Slim Fit Rocco Jean - Dark Rinse


Don't Wash them Every Week
In fact, you don't need to even wash them every year. I'm guessing the germaphobe readers are cringing right now, but let me present to you Exhibit A. In the article, the amount of bacteria between a pair of jeans that were worn for 15 months straight and one worn for 2 weeks was compared. Guess what? It was about the same. So get over thinking that you need to wash denim every week, month or 6 months. Plus, washing your jeans is going to kill that fit you've been working for and you'll be right back at square one. If you spill something on your jeans, just try to spot clean the area as well as you can before resorting to the machine. If the denim is getting a little stinky you can spray it with some Febreze and you'll be in the clear.

Gap 1969 Skinny Fit Jeans - Raw Indigo


Should My Jeans Have Jewels?
No. Your jeans should not have jewels, crosses, diamonds, pyramid studs, or any other accent that makes you look like a model out of an Affliction catalog. Your jeans shouldn't have pre-made tears, rips or holes in them either. That will come with time and when that time comes you should be tossing those ripped up jenas. Keep your jeans simple, with a standard 5 pocket design. If you want your jeans to be versatile, I recommend going for a darker wash like original blue or dark denim. You'll be able to wear them on casual friday, out on the town and everywhere in between.

Levi's 511 Skinny Jeans - Clean Dark

Don't let fancy brand names fool you, you don't have to spend $200 on a pair of jeans to get something that looks great. All of the choices above are under $70, easy on your wallet. You'll be able to pair any of these witha leather jacket, a shirt and tie, loafers, oxfords, sneakers, navy blazer, almost anything really.

Thanks for reading. As always, be dapper.
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Friday, June 17, 2011

Nordstrom's Half Yearly Sale for Men: This is the Weekend to Upgrade Your Style!

We all know Nordstrom's carries some of the top brands in the world, but it seems like they also usually have the highest prices in the world as well.  Good news: the Nordstrom's Half Yearly Sale for Men is going on from June 17-19, so this weekend is the time to upgrade your style.  I'm going to highlight 5 picks from this sale for you to consider because they are nearly impossible to pass up.

1901 Saddle Up Oxford

I love saddle shoes and these are the definitive style of these bold shoes.  Made from geniune suede, these are a steal at $65 and are a perfect look for the summer (especially when going sockless.)

1901 'Saddle Up' Oxford - $64.90

Salvatore Ferragamo 'Loris' Oxford

Still pricey, coming in at $329.90, but these lace ups are a master made pair of full leather shoes.  If you've been looking for a pair of shoes that will last you a decade or more (like I talked about in this article) you should be picking these up.

Salvatore Ferragamo 'Loris' Oxford - $329.90

Ibiza Collection Grey Strip Linen Blend Sportcoat

I love this jacket, but don't wear it if you're looking to blend in.  This jacket is bold and makes a statement, perfect for the summertime as a linen cotton blend that you can keep cool in.  You're going to need to get it tailored, most likely, so don't expect it to fit perfectly off the rack.

Ibiza Collection Grey Stripe Linen Blend Sportcoat - $229.90

Boss Black 'Slim Fit' Dress Shirt

You're getting a high quality dress shirt for under $100, so count yourself lucky.  There are a smattering of other brand, color and pattern options available, just make sure that you are looking for "slim fit" or "trim fit" in the title.

BOSS Black 'Slim Fit' Dress Shirt - $62.90

1901 Stripe Skinny Knit Tie

It's no secret that I have a thing for knit ties, I talked about them in this article, and this one is no exception.  Classic prep style and colors, this is a great pick to match up with chinos or lighter slacks.  Even jeans will look great with this tie, it's so versatile that it works for most any situation beyond formal and uber-professional.

1901 Stripe Skinny Knit Tie - $32.90

You're going to have to move fast if you want some of these deals, the sale only runs til Sunday so make sure you make it to a Nordstrom store or to their online store this weekend. If you're looking for a great father's day gift this would also be the perfect time!

Thanks for reading. As always, be dapper.
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